Then
the words ‘delayed’ and ‘on hold’ pop up on the list. There is fog in Amsterdam
and we can’t take off until we have a landing slot. For a while it looks as
though fog in Amsterdam will delay my arrival in Buenos Aires by 12 hours, but
in the end it's fine. One of the other delayed destinations is Neptune*. I
think maybe there’s fog on Mars, too.
Cutting
a long long journey short, I arrive in the middle of the night (though at the
time I'm not sure which night) and in one of the most torrential rain storms
I've ever seen. Don’t get wet though because a guy on the plane has
commandeered three of us: me and a couple going back-packing, to share an
airport car. Expensive for one but not between four. It takes us door to door.
The
hotel room has no tea (this isn't England after all), no desk, not a lot of
room, but I don’t care. I fall into bed and am asleep in seconds. I sleep so
well I'm up at dawn for breakfast.
So
many dire warnings not to carry handbags, not to display iPhones, that I end up
not taking many pics to start with, though I take a short video from the roof
terrace where we have coffee.
The
warnings are not for nothing. Three laptops and a wallet disappear from a
meeting the first day, while their owners are still in the room. It’s almost
sleight of hand, a slick operation to hit hard and fast before anyone's guard
is properly up. By the night of the gala dinner at the yacht club, so many
people have been robbed that the official speaker feels obliged to mention it
and apologize.
Nonetheless,
it’s an amazing place. A huge city that we don’t have the time to explore
properly.
A taxi driver takes us on an hour’s trip around parts of the city,
but it isn't long enough. Ideally, we'd stay on and explore more of the
country.
Flying
in at night shows that the city is built on blocks like New York. No shortcuts,
but things easy to find. Even so, we are warned several times not to venture
into certain areas. La Boca is mentioned in hushed tones. ‘You want to go to La
Boca? Find another cab driver’.
Oddly
enough we can’t get on a tourist bus because they've sold out of tickets. The odd
bit is that as we travel the city, we see many of the tourist buses and none of
them has more than 3 people on. We even try to board one of the empty buses,
but despite a hastily convened conference of the driver, guide and various
others, the consensus is that they can't let us on without a ticket. I get the
impression they'd like to fill their empty seats but some bureaucratic tangle
won't allow it.
Our
taxi driver gives a commentary as he takes us round. It's just about audible on
the videos.
I
meet a Spanish guy whose wife is Argentinian. They live in London but
have bought land in Uruguay.
I ask why Uruguay.
He tells me that the places in the Americas with the least corruption are
Canada and Uruguay. Other people tell me the same – about Uruguay anyway.
The
conference is less than pleased with Canada whose government has decided that
educational writers should write educational material purely for love.
We hear some disturbing tales at the International Authors Forum of the things writers are asked to accept in the digital age.
Our own
government in the UK flirted with the idea of shafting educational writers, which is a shame when the quality of UK educational writing is so good. Great way to save money for
schools. Stop paying the writers. I wonder why it’s OK to ask writers to work
for nothing but not the companies who provide the computers or the plumbers who
keep the sanitation systems working.
The
gala dinner: We
are herded onto buses and taken to the river bank where small boats take us
half a dozen at a time across to the yacht club. The landing stages are flat
wooden affairs with no rails. What will happen at the other end of the night
when people wander out awash with the wine that always flows at these events?
Surely we’ll be fishing copyright experts out of the river into the small
hours.
Then
I realize that those who champion copyright in these turbulent times are used
to being in deep water and there’s no need to worry. Indeed, everyone makes it home
safely.
Thanks for some fascinating glimpses of Argentina - in words, pictures and video. I am amazed at the government feeling it doesn't need to pay educational writers anymore. Would MPs agree for us not to pay them?
ReplyDeleteI'm sure MPs in all countries would be first to volunteer for salary cuts to help out the economy. Ha ha ha.
ReplyDeleteSmashing piece, Penny. Shame about the thefts: we had the same experience (of warning signs, that is) in Paris. Seems modern cities are places thieves find irresistible. The attitude of governments about writers is no surprise; they are a talentless bunch of unimaginative, self-serving cretins by and large. Glad you had a good time, though. And I enjoyed the videos.
ReplyDeleteI certainly agree with that view of government bods in many (far too many) cases, but to be fair there are those who dive into that world with the express view of trying to make things better. The sad thing is that they tend to get overtaken by endemic problems. Just look at the UK expenses scandal - all those brand new MPs who really really should have known better, indeed who did know better, but ended up getting sucked in anyway 'because everyone's doing it' and 'the rules allow'. And what happens to those who genuinely maintain their integrity? I think on the whole they're sidelined or, if they cause trouble, they're trashed by a carefully orchestrated campaign. It's a sad world in many ways. And today it's an extremely wet one.
ReplyDeleteAs I have said before, my opinion of politicians is that they are lower on the food chain than cowpats. Argentina sounded fun, though. Glad you had a good trip.
ReplyDelete